Monday, 18 August 2008

Stewing over those dogfish

Dogfish haven't got the very best reputation as an eating fish, although actually their lack of reputation is undeserved. Huss or rock salmon has been on chippy menus for decades, just not as dogfish.
I first ate it myself a few years ago after reading Rick Stein's English Seafood Cookery, in which he suggests, if my memory serves me correctly, grilling it in a Parmesan/breadcrumb crust and then serving it with a thinned garlic-mayonnaise sauce. Actually it was lovely like that, but I got put off by a piece of rank dogfish I'd bought reduced in a Taunton supermarket.
According to Hugh Double-Barrelled all members of the shark family have urea in their blood to help them with the whole living in seawater business, so it's important to bleed them just as you've killed them and while their heart is still beating. I can't imagine this happens on an industrial fishing scale, and this piece of dogfish did smell like something that might consist largely of urea. Yuch. The rest I will leave to your imagination, but suffice to say the dogfish ended up in the bin.
Anyway, this episode had put me off until now, when I had that beautiful fish, caught myself, bled, transferred straight to a coolbox and then skinned and filleted by my own fair hand in my kitchen.
HFW suggests making goujons and deep-frying them, serving them with a home-made tartare sauce. I have absolutely no that these would be fantastic, however I am making a serious effort to be less of a fat boy these days, so I needed a lower-calorie solution.
As dogfish does actually have a god white flesh, I decided to opt for a robust stew with plenty of saffron and garlic, to give the taste of the dogfish a run for its money.
The sauce is a fairly classic fish sauce - ingredients used for all kinds of fish soups and stews in differing quantities. I chopped up a bulb of fennel, a couple of celery stalks, a large onion, the white of one leek and three or four cloves of garlic, and a red pepper, and just softened them in olive oil in a large pan on top of the oven until they were very soft but not coloured. Next to go in was a couple of peelings of orange peel, chopped finely. Then I put in a really good load of black pepper and a good pinch of saffron, gave it a stir and then threw in a glug of the white wine I happened to be drinking at the time.
I then chopped up about a pound of tomatoes I had fresh - but that were getting a bit soft for eating raw - and added those along with a tin of the chopped plum variety. I chucked in a couple of fresh, torn bay leaves
Then I left that to cook down for a good half hour or 40 minutes.
Once the sauce was well broken down I added the dogfish, which I had cut into bite-sized morsels, stirred, put the lid back on and gave it another five minutes or so until the fish became translucent. And that was it. It was really good, served with just some brown rice, although had I not been watching my waistline I might have gone down the toasts and rouille/ aioli route, which goes so well with this type of fish stew...
My only regrets were that I had not brought more dogfish home. The meat froze OK (it was a little soft, but I might have overcooked it slightly), and this was a fine way of serving it.
Guess now I'll have to go and catch some more... If indeed I can.

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